How to Select Diamond Clarity

By Robert Underhill


Diamond Clarity

The clarity of a diamond is determined by its absence of flaws. The accepted standard for grading a diamond’s clarity is to examine it using a 10X microscope and the trained naked eye. The level of visibility, location, and nature of inclusions (flaws) in a diamond determine the clarity grade. Since no two stones are identical, a diamond clarity grade can sometimes be subjective. When that happens it may be necessary for multiple gemologists to concur and establish a clarity grade.

It is important to note that just because two diamonds have the same grade does not mean they are the same value. Some stones within a given grade are more attractive than others and diamond dealers will pay more for them. Likewise some dealers will buy the less desirable stones at discounts in order to sell them for less. 





Flawless Diamonds
Not Visible under 10 X magnification

Flawless and internally flawless diamonds have no visible internal inclusions when viewed by a gemologist under 10X magnification. These stones are the rarest of rare.
With the exception of elite jewelry and collectors, most people will find these stones prohibitive in cost, and choose to either save money or use that money toward size and/or color.


VVS Clarity Diamonds
Very difficult to see with a 10 X microscope

The VVS classification is broken into 2 categories VVS-1 & VVS-2. For our purposes, it will suffice to know that VVS1 is better than VVS2.  The number designation usually relates to either the quantity or the type of inclusion. The inclusions in VVS stones are not easy to detect, and the layperson often has difficulty seeing them even with a 10X microscope. As in the case with flawless stones, most people will find them prohibitive in cost, and choose to either save money or use that money toward size or color.


VS Clarity Diamonds
Moderately visible with a 10 X microscope

Once again, the VS classification is broken into 2 categories; VS1 & VS2, and VS1 being the better of the two grades. The average person is to see inclusions in a VS stone if they are pointed out by a jeweler under a 10 X microscope. VS diamonds are very practical because they are flawless to the naked eye, and they are priced considerably lower than the higher grades.


SI Clarity Diamonds

The SI Clarity rating is also broken in 2 categories SI-1 and SI-2. There are some jewelers and laboratories that acknowledge the classification "SI-3", but this is not accepted by the Gemological Institute of America-GIA.

The SI classification is a little more difficult to navigate. Stones at the high end of the class - SI1 - are typically flawless to the eye if they are smaller than a carat. Most SI-1 diamonds have inclusions that are not noticeable to the average person when mounted in jewelry up to 1.5 carats during normal wear.

SI-2 stones can contain flaws that although slightly noticeable under close scrutiny, may look nice mounted in jewelry. Some stones in the SI-2 clarity range look better to the eye than others. This can be very subjective, and you should examine stones in this class very carefully before deciding on this grade.

Stones that are classified "SI-3" are typically stones that would be otherwise classified I-1 by GIA standards, but are above average in their class. SI-3 stones usually exhibit characteristics that are visible in normal wear.

The type and location of flaws in these stones have a lot to do with their appeal.
SI diamonds, when carefully selected, can provide an optimal look at significant savings.


I Clarity Diamonds

"I" Clarity is broken into 3 categories I-1, 2&3. At the top end of the scale, I-1 diamonds have visible inclusions to the naked eye. At the low end of the scale, I-3 diamonds have inclusions that are visible from across the room. The primary reason stones in this class are purchased is “Big for less.” Be careful of this emotional trap. In some cases, people become disenchanted with their clarity after the purchase and are embarrassed by appearance. It can be very non-gratifying if you decide to trade down to a much smaller stone at a later date.