How a Jewelers Torch is Used

Soldering Precious Metals

After all of the materials in a project are formed and shaped, they must be assembled and soldered, or welded, together by torch. This process requires steady hands and extreme expertise in temperature control. In this case, very delicate platinum prongs are being added to this fragile butterfly. Weeks of work will be destroyed if the surrounding areas are melted.





Creating a Gemstone Setting

Here, a model maker is creating a hand made cluster setting. Small circles of platinum were formed and are now being soldered to an 18kt yellow gold underbezel. The jeweler, working over a heat-resistant fiberboard, is using a micro torch and a pick to apply flakes of 18kt gold which will melt and bond the circles to the center structure at temperatures of 1800° F.





Platinum Prong Assembly

Here, the jeweler is fusing platinum prongs to the reverse side of the cluster exhibited in the previous illustration.
At this stage of construction, the metals are reaching a critical temperature and a slight difference in how the model maker waves the flame can result in a complete meltdown of the cluster. Note that all 21 pieces of metal have been attached free-hand at high temperatures and are perfectly straight and even. This looks easier than it is!





Platinum Welding

Platinum welding is done at a temperature of 3224° F, the same temperature that platinum melts. A bit cooler and the metals will not bond, a bit hotter and it becomes a platinum puddle. At this white hot and cherry red temperature, the model maker has to wear dark tinted goggles to protect the eyes.







Adding Prongs to Jewelry

In this illustration, the jeweler is using stationary tweezers, called a third hand, to hold a cast 18kt model in position. The jeweler is free-handing platinum prongs into position while gold is melted into the contact points. If the temperature is not closely controlled, the adjacent prongs will melt or fall and release from the project.







Welding a Three Stone Ring

In this illustration, a platinum ring shank is being held into position by a clamp while platinum prongs are welded to the shank. The end result will be the classic three stone ring that is very popular in jewelry today.







Jewelry Designs is the area’s leader in retail and manufacturing of fine diamond jewelry. Jewelry Designs is located in Danbury, Connecticut in western Fairfield county bordering Westchester and Putnam counties on the New York state line.

Directions to our showroom.
More store information