How to Set Diamonds and Precious Stones By Jewelry Designs

How to Set Diamonds & Gemstones

Click to enlarge image

Selecting the Gems

The first step in setting a fine piece of jewelry is selecting the proper stones to make the project work. At Jewelry Designs, our stone sorters carefully select and match even the smallest diamonds in our jewelry to insure that the relationship to one another give the maximum visual impact.

Prong Setting Gemstones

Here, the setter is preparing a necklace for this delicate 19ct emerald cut tanzanite. The setter has already set all of the secondary stones in order to reduce the risk of damaging the center stone while finishing the piece. The setter will use a hand-held rotary tool to cut seats in the prongs so that the stone will rest level in the mounting. Once the stone is properly positioned, the prongs will be tightened, trimmed, and polished.

Click to enlarge image

Prong Setting- Preparation

In this cluster, the secondary stones have already been secured. The diamond setter is using a small rotary cup to shape the prongs into smooth, round forms so that they will not snag or catch on clothing. After this process, the diamond cluster will be polished in preparation for setting the primary stone.

Finished Tanzanite Cluster

Here, the setter has already assured seats into the eight platinum prongs and leveled the stone in the mounting. Preparation of prongs is the most critical element of stone setting. All of the prongs must be cut at the proper angle and on the right level to insure that delicate stones like this tanzanite are not damaged during setting. Setting pliers are being used to apply just the right amount of pressure at the correct angles to tighten and secure the stone into the mounting.

Click to enlarge image

Channel Setting-Preparation

In this illustration, the setter is using a hand-held rotary tool to azure slots into the channel wall where the diamonds will sit.
Each diamond will have a slot carved into the mounting that matches the angles of the individual stone. When the angles are cut properly, the stones can be pressed into the metal and will sit perfectly level with the surface of the metal.

Channel Setting-Tightening

After a stone is properly positioned in the seat, the walls of the channel are hammered over the stone. In this channel set princess cut diamond ring, the setter is using a pneumatic hammering tool to form the metal over the diamonds. When all of the stones are tightened and secured, the ring will be reshaped, sanded, and polished.

Click to enlarge image

Channel Setting-Finished Piece

In the final ring, all of the princess cut diamonds line up against one another with a minimal gap to form a clean diamond strip. All of the stones are secured by a fine, overlapping wall of metal. Properly done, the wall will secure the stones for years of wear.

Pavé and Bead-Layout

Here, the setter has drilled all of the areas of the wing and tail where stones are to be set. The uppermost portion of the wing has been assured with a hand-held rotary tool, and a seat has been cut into the metal to provide clearance for the bottoms of the stones. The yellow diamonds are now being placed in their seats in preparation for tightening.

Click to enlarge image

Pavé and Bead-Setting

In this illustration, the hummingbird is mounted in jeweler’s shellac to keep it stable while the setter tightens the stones. The setter is now raising miniature beads of gold from the throat of the hummingbird, and rolling them over the stone to secure the rubies. This very difficult procedure requires years of training and experience to master.

Pave' and Bead-Finished

In this final bead-set hummingbird, there are 394 stones. They consist of rubies in the throat, emeralds on the head and back, vivid yellow diamonds in the wings, and black and white diamonds in the feathers on the wings and tail. You can see all of the phases of the creation of this hummingbird in the "Design" section of this site under "Making a Hummingbird".

Click to enlarge image

Bezel & Gypsy Setting Gems

In this photo, the setter is using a bearing cutter to excavate a bezel in order to seat a stone. By tilting the rotary bur, he can emulate the shape of the underside of the stone so that it lays level in the seat. The adjacent stones have already been tightened by rolling the platinum bezel over them with a hand-held burnishing tool.

Bezel & Gypsy-Preparation

Here, metal is being excavated from the thick walled, semi bezel to prepare the setting for a pear shaped ruby. Seating a stone so that it fits properly in the mounting before tightening is the most critical part of any setting project. It is crucial to shape the seat so that the ruby will sit level and the underside of the stone and culet will clear the interior walls and base of the setting.

Click to enlarge image

Bezel & Gypsy-Securing Stones

The ruby has been properly seated and firmly pressed into the semi bezel. The stone’s edge, or girdle, is resting equally on all of the supporting surfaces. Several areas have been gently crimped over the stone to hold it into position so that it can be tightened. In the illustration, the stone is being tightened with a hand-held pneumatic hammer. When the stone is secure, the tooled metal will be resurfaced and polished to a mirror finish.

Bezel Gypsy-Finished Ruby Ring

In this photo, the ruby has been set and the ring polished. A setting like this should last for generations.

Click to enlarge image

Original Platinum & Gold Jewelry

Jewelry Designs is the area’s leader in retail and manufacturing of fine diamond jewelry.
Jewelry Designs is located in Danbury, Connecticut in western Fairfield county bordering Westchester and Putnam counties on the New York state line.

Click here for directions.

Click here for store information.