Making "The Treasure's Trove" Jewel, The Butterfly By Jewelry Designs

Making a Butterfly

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Wax

These partially carved wax wings were hand carved from modeling wax. The wax used is in block form and has the consistency of soft plastic. The wax carver cut two thin slabs from the block of wax, and then cut out rough silhouettes in the outline of a butterfly’s wings. The rough shapes were then filed and ground into the slim, arched pieces as seen in the photo. The outlined fields for the stone layout were carved with a graver.

Wax Final

Here, the wings have been pierced to assist the setters with their work later in the project. The wings will be attached to a wax tree and mounted in a flask which will be filled with investment. The specially blended investment slurry will cure to form a ceramic-like mold that can withstand the extreme 3224° F temperature of molten platinum. The flask containing the wings will be incinerated in an oven for 12 hours. When the flask is fully burned out, only a hollow impression of the sculpted wings will remain.

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Platinum Cast Wings

After the wax was burned out, the flasks were mounted in the cradle of a high frequency casting centrifuge. Platinum was heated and the centrifuge was spun, releasing the molten platinum into the vacant cavity once occupied by the incinerated wax wings. In this picture you can see the platinum wings on the trees, as they were in wax. After casting, the ceramic-like material was removed from the wings by boiling them in acid for several hours. Nine ounces of platinum were needed to properly fill the molds. The cast wings must now be cut from the tree and the wings will be ground, polished, and finished.

Piercing

In this illustration, you can see that the jeweler has milled a section of 18k plate, whitened the metal, drawn a wing pattern, and cut away the silhouette of the wings. Tiny holes have been drilled in the gold, and a fine jeweler’s saw has been threaded through the openings enabling him to trim the desired shapes.

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Assuring the Wings

In this picture, the upper and lower sections of the wing have been formed into graceful, convex shapes, and neatly soldered together. Through the use of hand-held rotary tools, called flexible shafts, the jeweler uses various interchangeable drills and cutters to eliminate material from the 18kt latticework.

Finished Latticework

The lattice cutaways have been shaped with escapement files and the lattice have been lightly polished in preparation for assembly

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Assembling the Lattice

Using decorative struts, the model maker is mounting the lattice to the platinum cast wings. The graceful lattice is in a position offset from the wings to create an airy, vented surface that lightens the visual effect of the broad platinum wings. The lattice is an elaborate, attractive way to conceal the reverse side of our setting, and it enables easy cleaning while creating a light, whimsical appearance.

Wax Butterfly Body

In this picture, you can see that the butterfly has been pavé set with 332 blue sapphires, weighing 15.66ct, and 337 colorless diamonds weighing 4.81ct. The wax model maker is now carving segments for the body of the butterfly to be cast through the lost wax process.

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Cast Butterfly Body

The body of the butterfly has been cast in two segments: an 18kt thorax to be enameled, and a platinum head to be set with a pear shaped diamond. The two cast sections will be pre-polished and prepared for enameling and assembly.

Fit Up

The assembled body is now being cut and shaped to nestle between the sapphire and diamond wings of the butterfly. Next, the jeweler will hand file deep, spiraling grooves into the body so that we can fill it with black enamel.

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Preparing the Legs

An 18kt gold rod was rolled and drawn into gold wire. From the wire, segments were cut and the ends wilted by torch to fashion the butterfly’s joints as seen here on the jeweler’s fire board. The leg segments have been shaped with files and then linked at the desired angles at the joints with a micro torch. We have been observing an actual butterfly, and each leg has been individually made in the image of an actual butterfly leg.

Final Assembly

Here is the finished underside showing the connection of the legs and 18kt gold lattice used as a decorative under tier on our
diamond and sapphire articulated butterfly. The detail on the reverse side of this butterfly speaks volumes about the craftsmanship in the piece. When sitting upright, the butterfly is poised and alert with the front slightly raised in position as it is in true life.

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The Butterfly Finished

The Butterfly was part of the world famous "A Treasure’s Trove" collection and has toured museums, was pictured in hundreds of publications, and was viewed on national television shows throughout America. The Butterfly is set with one 1.11ct pear shaped diamond in the head. The four pavé set wings contain 332 blue sapphires weighing 15.66ct and 337 colorless diamonds weighing 4.81ct. The body is further articulated with black enameling and the total finished weight is 62.57 grams.

Jewelry Designs is the area’s leader in retail and manufacturing of fine diamond jewelry.
Jewelry Designs is located in Danbury, Connecticut in western Fairfield county bordering Westchester and Putnam counties on the New York state line.

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